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Paige Hunter Blog

Paige Hunter Blog

women, fashion, beauty

10 Things You Should Know Before You Get Your Lips Tattooed

Ever since Kylie Jenner did for lips what Cara Delevingne did for brows (a.k.a. started the whole the-fuller-the-better trend), people have been searching for the single product or procedure that will help them achieve that same plumped-up look. We know that Jenner's lips are the result of injections—and one of the latest trends is nearly as extreme: lip tattoos.

After a brave writer for Cosmopolitan Australia got her lip liner tattooed, we needed to know more about this procedure. We asked Amy Kernhan, a permanent makeup artist in New York City who's tattooed brows, eyelids, and lips for ten years, to fill us in (no, not literally). Here are the 10 things you should know if you decide to enter the world of permanent makeup, according to her.

Lip tattoos are meant to enhance lips, not create actual fullness. This procedure is designed to define lips, not create volume or puffiness, say Kernhan. "It will just give you the appearance of a full lip," she says. "Since part of the process is outlining right on the border of the lip, I'm only helping to give your lips the appearance that their fuller." It's all about the illusion.

The tattoo doesn't just go around your lip like traditional lip liner application. "I do an outline on the border of the lip, but I'm also shading the color down into the middle of the lip in a circular motion to give it more of a blended look," says Kernhan. "I leave the interior part of the lip without color."

lip-tattoo.jpg

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It's possible to get a color that's close to your natural lip color—but that means it won't last as long. "The more natural the color, the more frequent your touch-ups are going be," says Kernhan. "If someone comes in and says, 'I love my color; I just want it to be a hint more,' they're probably going to have to come in once a year for touch-ups to refresh that color." Kernhan suggests tattooing your lips one or two shades darker or brighter depending on your natural skin tone.

Most places use pigment instead of traditional tattoo ink (which is why it fades). Years ago, permanent makeup was applied with regular tattoo ink. That's why it often looked so unnatural. "When you get a body tattoo, it's usually done with ink, which has a very watery consistency," says Kernhan. "Pigment is thicker, so it gives that more natural powdery finish. But it does exfoliate out of your skin after 12 to 18 months. And since you eat and drink with your lips, it's going to happen faster."

Yes, it's painful. Lips are especially sensitive, so if you're considering getting this done, you may want to pay extra for an anesthetic to block the pain. "Since lips are very vascular, I share office space with a plastic surgeon and my patients have the option of paying an extra $150 for that," says Kernhan. "If they choose to have an anesthetic, I can get the procedure done much faster."

The healing process takes about ten days. Kernhan advises her patients getting lip tattoos to schedule the procedure for a Thursday, so they can let the swelling and dryness die down over the weekend. "The lips will look very dry and chapped as they heal," says Kernhan. "The color gets lighter, and then as the skin heals, it comes back. You usually see the full, truest color after about two weeks."

If you're prone to cold sores, make sure you're taking medication to prevent them. "The stimulation from the needle can bring out cold sores and that can really ruin the procedure and make the healing process much worse," says Kernhan.

It doesn't work on every skin tone. "I have to turn away a lot of people that have that darker skin tones, because they can hyperpigment. The needle abrades the skin, so when they heal, a lot more pigment is produced, and their lips could actually get darker," she explains.

Lip liner tattoo lasts longer than temporary lip fillers, but it costs more. Temporary lip fillers cost anywhere from $750 to $950 and they last six to nine months. Kernhan initially charges $950 for the lip liner tattoo procedure, and it's a two- or three-step process. She charges $200 for the second visit. And for yearly touchups, she charges $350.

If you don't like your tattoo, you can get it removed with a laser. "If anyone asks me to tattoo outside of their lip line, I won't do it. If they don't like their natural lip line, I tell them to go get a filler first," says Kernhan. And if you absolutely hate your lip liner tattoo, there are laser treatments that can sometimes remove the color. But that involves more money and more pain.

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You should also see:

http://www.abigailbell.abatasa.co.id/post/detail/54541/everything-you-should-know-about-cortisone-injections-for-acne.html

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Why I'm not a fan of the new modest swimwear being targeted at mums

What do you wear to the beach? Are you comfortable wearing a bikini, or do you prefer a less revealing one-piece?

Well, now you can cover up as much as you want. Several brands of swimwear are offering full coverage, rashie-type swimwear with built-in skirts or capri pants and high necks. The suits will hide your arms, legs, cleavage and bum – all those body parts we insecure women have traditionally been scared of showing.

But what kind of forces make women want to hide their bodies at the beach?

The ranges of 'modest' swimwear were all originally designed Orthodox Jewish and Muslim women who are forbidden from showing their bodies in public. They have, however, had much wider appeal. Larger women, new mums and elderly ladies have all bought the full coverage suits, presumably because they feel uncomfortable in regular swimwear.

Now the swimwear labels are actually marketing their products to new mums, knowing that so many will choose to cover up their bodies at the beach rather than be seen in a bikini.

Some of the 'modest' swimwear available now, and being targeted at mums.

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And this made me sad. Obviously there is nothing wrong with covering up for religious or health reasons. But it does worry me that women – particularly new mothers – could feel compelled to wear full coverage swimwear because their bodies are less than perfect.

I remember vividly the feeling of stripping to my swimsuit shortly after my third baby was born. She was a summer baby, and we were on a beach holiday just weeks after she arrived. I bore a visible caesarean scar and had significant tummy overhang from my pregnancy, plus varicose veins, stretch marks and extra weight. As a result, I wore a rashie top over my bikini for the first time in years; I was far too self-conscious to let my loose stomach hang out.

But I wish now that I had been braver. I wish now that I had fought that desire to cover up. A post-partum body is as natural and normal as any other body. And when people like me hide ourselves under rashie tops and 'modest' swimwear, we perpetuate the notion that less than perfect bodies are shameful and embarrassing.

It's a difficult issue because I know how hard it is to resist that societal pressure. It is hammered into us through the media and our own insecurities to be ashamed of our imperfections, including those arising from pregnancy and birth. We are supposed to 'bounce back' to our pre-pregnancy states within weeks, to be thin, toned, tanned and unblemished. And so we cover ourselves up when we don't meet these standards, out of our own discomfort, and to protect other people from the horror of our less-than-ideal bodies.

And we shouldn't have to. Those of us with imperfect bodies have just as much right to feel good in a bikini as supermodels. And the more flawed bodies we see, the more we chip away at the body image ideal.

I don't believe that every new mother has a responsibility to be a body image pioneer. If it is too confronting or uncomfortable for you to show off your body, then by all means wear a rashie. But marketing modest swimwear specifically to new mums just spreads the idea that post-partum bodies aren't good enough.

And really, our bodies are as awesome and beautiful as the bodies of the babies they created.

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Ottoman empire revisited

He travels across the world, visits places which still have kept their past alive and draws inspiration from the most prized heritage edifices. Finally, these experiences go into his creations around which is woven an engrossing narrative. For the seventh edition of BMW India Bridal Fashion Week, the couturier, who is actively involved with the fashion week and even made his presence felt on the announcement of the event, has prepared a collection which seems to have an Indian connect but is closer home. “For every collection there is an inspiration that motivates us to use our imagination. This time round the inspiration comes from the Ottoman Empire. The collection is almost like looking at an old Ottoman empire tapestry. One look at the Topkapi Palace and one realises how beautiful it is.”

The focus of attention in the finale collection will be the Topkapi Palace, which epitomises the grandeur of the Ottoman Empire. Perhaps the gargantuan palace would be done up on the stage.

“It is a large palace in Istanbul, Turkey. It is now a museum and is the finest examples of Ottoman Empire,” says Suneet. Inspired by the tapestries of the palace, he has made long silhouettes, embroideries in zari and resham. The colour palette is Persian blue with an amalgamation of rose, ivory and beige. There will be saris with long sleeve blouses, soft skirts with cutwear embroidery, apart from lehengas and anarkalis.

The Ottoman Empire introduced the Persian blue to the world.

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Suneet has drawn inspiration from the dazzling architecture of the palace and given a feel of the monuments of the bygone era in his collection because he is aware that Ottoman Empire’s influence is palpable in the architecture and designs of Mughal-era monuments. That way, there would be an instant connect with the audience.

Noting that it is a chaotic place he lives in, Suneet says, “From the inspiration, to the sets, accessories and the music of the show it builds up like an enormous surge and I treat it like a vast ocean of endless possibilities. For this show, I have seen that craftsmanship and quality stand out. Indian weddings are joyous occasions. Attending them gives one an emotional unforgettable experience. This is what I am striving.”

Pointing out that he does not do things half-heartedly, Suneet says, “If I am in love with a theme I am totally involved with it. I was in London doing a trunk show. And there a lot of Indian girls came to me showing the mirror work that I had showcased on their Instagram account. They asked me to make something like that. I was tempted to do the mirror work again. The fact that mirror work didn’t just work for India but everywhere in the world.”

Shedding light on the fabric and accessories he has used in making bridal outfits, Suneet says all the accessories are actually handmade using Swarovski crystals in the studio. “The Ottoman Empire introduced the Persian blue to the world. Therefore we are using all shades of blue. You can see a lot of sage green, beige, navy and grey. There will be a lot of bridal collection that will be mostly maroon and red.”

Lace effect

Suneet is tempted to have Sonakshi Sinha as his showstopper as the sari created by him, which she wore it on the announcement of the BMW India Bridal Fashion Week, has generated tremendous response from fashion-conscious netizens. “The sari worn by Sonakshi is from my new collection. It is actually on a silk net fabric. Resham embroidery has been done on it to give the sari a lace effect. It is light in weight, it is very ornamental looking. Sonakshi prefers wearing traditional yet light dress.”

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Aishwarya models for Manish Malhotra at AICW2015

Bollywood actress and former Miss World Aishwarya Rai Bachchan returned to the ramp after five years with friend Manish Malhotra’s collection The Empress Story, showcased at the closing of the Amazon India Couture Week 2015 in New Delhi.

With the collection, Malhotra celebrated 25 years in the industry and 10 years of his label. The Empress Story was also a preview to the Manish Malhotra London label, his newly launched limited edition pieces, and a men’s wear capsule, and announced the opening of two signature stores in Dubai and in London.

The collection, a tribute to a self-confident and spirited woman, saw models dressed in western gowns with voluminous skirts, yet with an Indian touch in their gold embellishments. Malhotra accessorised each garment with chunky gold jewellery by Dedhia Jewellers and golden masks. Mostly in silk and velvet, the colours ranged from silver and gold to deep burgundy and delicate mauve in raw silk to grey and coffee brown, which showstopper Rai Bachchan walked the ramp in, despite running a high fever.

Keeping her makeup and style simple, the former Miss World allowed the garment to take centre stage, despite the fact that she was returning to the world of fashion after five years.

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“It’s always a pleasure to wear [Manish’s] clothes but his visual presentation is a treat. His success story is a statement itself. You can imagine 25 years today and 10 years to his label. People across borders have enjoyed his work. They’ve touched our culture through our cinema,” said Rai Bachchan. “I had to be here. Manish is a very, very special person. As a professional I’m sure you all know him but to me it’s more personal. I’ve known Manish right from the beginning, since 1993. We started out there and he pursued his passion for movies — he’s an encyclopaedia — but that apart his absolute passion for giving direction to his creativity, he has this wonderful vision”.

Three-dimensional embroidery in the shape of huge flowers and bird motifs in delicate threadwork covered the dresses. For men, the embroidery and gold sequin work continued in the structured jackets and trousers in midnight blue and black. The gold embroidered matching shoes marked Malhotra’s entry into accessories.

“2015 marks an important milestone as the Manish Malhotra label celebrates 10 years and 25 years a costume director,” the designer said in a post-event written statement, preferring to give the stage to Rai Bachchan after the show. “The Empress Story is a special collection as it not only ends the beautiful decade that was, but also represents the beginning of a new phase for the brand. It captures the excitement and thrill of taking the next step, while taking pride in its foundations. With it I return to my love for timeless aesthetics and structure along with fine craftsmanship that has taken months to translate onto fabric. All the elements in the collection do speak a common, universal language of elegance and elan. Much like the power of femininity, these will never go out of style.”

The closing event of the Amazon India Couture Week at The Leela Palace Hotel was well attended, including Rai Bachchan’s mother-in-law, veteran actress Jaya Bachchan, Shabana Azmi. Heropanti actress and Monisha Jaising’s showstopper Kriti Sanon too was in the front row with actress Aditi Rao Hydari and Sophie Choudhary.

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From aunties to party girls

For much of his career, the brand Bonia meant little to ex-Burberry designer Pepe Torres.

Now, the 49-year-old lives and breathes the Singapore brand as its creative director.

It was on a personal visit to Singapore two years ago that he first encountered the 41-year-old accessories brand while shopping. What struck him about it was its attention to quality.

"I started asking material suppliers in Italy what they knew about Bonia and I heard very good things," says the Spaniard during a phone interview with Life from Hong Kong, where he was on a personal trip.

A few months later, he met Bonia's executive director, Mr Daniel Chiang, in Paris by chance when a friend introduced them at a lunch. This meeting led to his appointment as creative director last year. Mr Chiang's father, Mr Chiang Sang Sem, started the brand.

From aunties to party girls

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Mr Torres, who has spent more than two decades in the fashion industry, has been tasked with revitalising the brand and making it attractive to a new generation of consumers, says a Bonia spokesman.

"A lot of people have this impression that we make bags for older women, but it's changing. Our goal is to create something more fun," says Mr Torres.

Bonia's signature monogram fabrics have been closely associated with "aunties", who are attracted to the brand's affordable prices, which range from $300 to $400, and functional designs. Sales have been brisk at the public-listed company. Profits rose year-on-year between 2010 and last year. Bonia Singapore saw a turnover of $25.6 million last year.

Globally, the brand has 57 stand-alone boutiques and 412 points of sale in countries such as Malaysia, Japan and Cambodia.

In Singapore, it has six stand-alone stores and 18 other points of sale, which contribute about 20 per cent to its global sales.

In his first collection for the brand, which will be launched in September, Mr Torres has created a wider offering of clutches and new colours to appeal to a party- going crowd.

"I have very ambitious plans for Bonia. I want to create a lifestyle brand, but this will take time, " says the Barcelona-based designer, who also runs a fashion consultancy there. With Bonia occupying most of his time, he says he flies to Kuala Lumpur at least four times a year, where the bag company is headquartered.

He spent 10 years at British luxury brand Burberry, where he was head designer for womenswear, menswear and accessories, before moving on to Spanish luxury label Loewe. Earlier in his career, he worked within the design teams at Mango, Antonio Miro and Carolina Herrera.

He says that his experience at established heritage brands such as Burberry and Loewe has taught him how to build brand icons that will stand the test of time. For example, he updated the design of Loewe's Amazona bag in 2003. The bag was first launched in 1975 and has gone through several incarnations. It is now among Loewe's bestsellers.

In his opinion, Bonia's Sonia bag, which was launched at the end of 2013 and named after Taiwanese model-actress and Bonia ambassador Sonia Sui, will be valued in years to come because of its unique hat-like shape. In fact, he hopes for it to become a classic like the Hermes Birkin.

"The Hermes Birkin is a bag from the 1980s, but it is still relevant today and carried by women of various age groups. Similarly, we want to keep the Sonia and constantly refresh its image by crafting it out of different materials," says the bachelor.

The upcoming Autumn/Winter 2015-2016 collection will see the traditionally leather Sonia bag come in an embellished version for the first time, with embroidery and beading.

Torres says: "I'm not here to start a revolution, I'm creating an evolution."

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Vera Wang Enlists Olympic Skater Evan Lysacek As Creative Consultant

Vera Wang has officially enlisted Evan Lysacek as a creative consultant for her storied fashion house.

Wang has previously designed costumes for figure skaters — including Lysacek, Nancy Kerrigan and Michelle Kwan — and was even inducted into the U.S. Figure Skating Hall of Fame in 2009 for her contribution to the sport as a costume designer.

Lysacek previously spent a few days shadowing Wang in the final stages of one of her spring collections, WWD reported.

Olympic skater Evan Lysacek

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"I've learned quite a bit through Vera," he said at that time, the trade publication reported. "It's really interesting to see what goes into a collection. That kind of creativity is extremely important, especially now in a world that is less about money. People can set themselves apart by the clothes they choose to wear. That's an easy way for us to express ourselves every day."

Wang has a long history in the fashion industry. She launched her namesake brand after designing her own wedding dress in 1989, the designer opened her own design salon in the Carlyle Hotel in New York City. She has since opened bridal boutiques in New York, London, Tokyo and Sydney, Australia.

Wang has designed wedding wear for celebrities such as Chelsea Clinton, Ivanka Trump, Alicia Keys, Mariah Carey, Victoria Beckham, Avril Lavigne, Jennifer Lopez, Jennifer Garner, Hilary Duff, Uma Thurman, Jessica Simpson, Kate Hudson, Khloe Kardashian and Kim Kardashian. In 2011, she launched a collection for David's Bridal, with gowns ranging from afforable $600-$1,400.

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Celebrating an 'extraordinary' day and two new exhibits at the Hammer Museum

The event: The Hammer Museum celebrated two new exhibitions, “Mark Bradford: Scorched Earth” and “Perfect Likeness: Photography and Composition,” with a jampacked weekend of events. Festivities began with Friday’s summer supper for artists, collectors and other VIPs and continued Saturday with curator-guided walk-throughs and receptions for museum supporters, patrons, directors and members, culminating in a shindig for 1,600, complete with a DJ set.

The scene: At Friday’s supper, guests seated themselves at long tables in the Hammer’s open courtyard, and museum director Ann Philbin addressed the crowd. Aside from thanking donors, she proposed toasts to the artists before guests dined family-style on barbecued brisket, lemon-marinated chicken, penne pasta and various veggies.

Mark Bradford joins Hammer Museum director Ann Philbin at a party that celebrated two exhibitons.

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Noting that the day included not only the night’s celebration of the Hammer’s new shows, but also the Supreme Court’s ruling to legalize same-sex marriage and a historic eulogy by President Obama, Philbin talked of “this extraordinary day when we are replacing the Confederate flag with the rainbow flag and when our President sang ‘Amazing Grace’ at the funeral in South Carolina.” She then congratulated Bradford on his timely, powerful and fearless work.

The Bradford exhibition: In “Scorched Earth,” his first solo exhibition in Los Angeles, Bradford dug through layers of previous artwork painted onto a museum wall to create a map of the United States, each state showing numbers to represent people living with AIDS. Also featured are 12 new works influenced by the aftermath of L.A.’s uprisings in 1992 and a multimedia installation of an off-color comedy routine.

The photography: “Perfect Likeness: Photography and Composition” examines contemporary photography through 53 works by 24 artists who have consciously arranged images with forethought and attention to detail, more like a painter might compose an image than like a street photographer who would capture spontaneity, according to adjunct curator Russell Ferguson.

The crowd: Bradford and his partner, Allan de Castro, joined more artists, many whose work appeared in the photography show, including Catherine Opie, Thomas Demand, Lucas Blalock, Roe Ethridge, Elad Lassry, Sharon Lockhart, Charles Gaines, Kenny Scharf, Edgar Arceneaux, Toba Khedoori, A.L. Steiner, Sam Durant and Ana Prvacki, Mary Reid Kelley with Patrick Kelley and Francesca Gabbiani with Eddie Ruscha. Museum supporters included Eileen Harris Norton, Rosette Delug, Joy Monkarsh, Linda Janger, Ari Emanuel, Alan Hergott, Curt Shepard, Christopher Farr, MOCA director Philippe Vergne, Getty director Timothy Potts and Marc Porter, chairman Americas of Christie’s, the summer supper sponsor.

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Little Mix: How we picked Magic scent

Little Mix all got their favourite smells into new perfume Gold Magic.

Perrie Edwards had to trust her bandmates' judgement when it came to choosing their new perfume.

Little Mix launched their debut scent, Gold Magic, earlier this week and all have described it as a dream come true.

However Perrie had a little trouble mixing together different perfume notes, as she has no sense of smell. Luckily Jade Thirlwall, Jesy Nelson and Leigh-Anne Pinnock were on hand to help.

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"We all like certain smells. Me and Jesy are very much into the fruity, watermelons and a bit of floral as well. And we kind of combined that with the muskiness that you guys [Perrie and Jesy] like," Jade told Cover Media.

"And obviously our Pez cannot smell, so she had to trust our judgement. So there's a bit of lemon meringue, because she likes that. So it's got that little tone to it."

As well as exciting their fans, the perfume has had the thumbs up from the band's family.

Perrie jokes her mother has already got a bag full, and that her brother Jonnie couldn't get enough.

"It's always nice to get a compliment. I was wearing it and my brother, my brother is hard to please you see, and when he came in he was like, 'Ohhh,' and I was like, 'Alright kid, sniffing us,' and he said, 'That's gorgeous,'" the blonde laughed.

"My dad really liked it. So it's got a man's approval," added Leigh-Anne. "I think it's got that lasting smell to it. Where if you do walk past, it's really nice."

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JUSTIN VIVIAN BOND with Jarrett Earnest

Justin Vivian Bond is a writer and singer who became famous in the 1990s as Kiki DuRane, half of the cabaret duo Kiki and Herb. An icon of the transgender community, Bond uses “V” in place of gendered pronouns, and has published a moving account of growing-up called Tango: My Childhood Backward and in Heels (Feminist Press, 2011). The latest installment of V’s holiday special, “Star of Light! An Evening of Bi-Polar Witchy Wonder,” will run December 17 – 23 at Joe’s Pub, combining Bond’s signature mix of a comedic storytelling and holiday torch songs. V met with the Rail’s Jarrett Earnest to discuss “Rudolph, the Red-nosed Reindeer,” “Future Feminism,” and “Feelings.”

Jarrett Earnest (Rail): “Holiday Specials” are a special event, what are some that were important to you as a child?

Justin Vivian Bond: The first one I remember and that I still love the most is “Rudolph, the Red Nosed Reindeer” (1964)—I still watch it every year. Rudolph was an outcast and had a little red shiny nose that got him into a lot of trouble; he had to go on an Odyssean journey, overcoming various obstacles in order to return to his family and be appreciated for who he truly was. I’ve always appreciated that story and the fact that his girlfriend Clarice was so glamorous—I also really loved “Meet me in St. Louis” (1944).

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Rail: The darkest of all Christmas movies—

Bond: Yes! I sing the song from that movie knowing that the original lyric was not “have yourself a merry little Christmas, may your heart be light,” but “have yourself a merry little Christmas, it may be your last.” They changed it because Judy Garland said, “I can’t sing that to little Margaret O’Brian, I’ll be public enemy number one!”

Rail: I know the Rudolph thing is kind of a joke but—

Bond: It’s not a joke!

Rail: Well, to take it a bit too seriously: isn’t it a little troubling that Rudolph is ostracized but then welcomed back and celebrated for his difference only when he becomes useful to them? I feel that is a little bit like “gay visibility” right now, like as long as you are good consumers and good citizens—that you want to get married and have babies and be in the army—we’ll let you pull the sleigh.

Bond: I guess the question is: once they found the island of misfit toys, why did they leave? They could have just stayed there. I think it was his thing for Clarice—love made him go back I guess.

Rail: I always thought the island of misfit toys was the most exciting part of that movie.

Bond: This is why I think people are so disappointed in the things that have been happening in my two favorite cities, New York and San Francisco, because the islands of misfit toys have been overrun by Donner and Blitzen and their reindeer games. It’s so tragic. We have to find a new island. And the misfit toys—let’s face it—fix things up real nice and then everyone want to move into the misfit toys’ neighborhood and kick them out. It’s the way it’s been for thousands of years, since the invention of language.

Rail: Your memoir Tango focuses on childhood sexuality and not the beginnings of your artistic life. I’m very interested in your life as a singer—when did you begin?

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Bond: I always sang when I was a kid. I remember having a solo of “High Hopes” (1994) when I was in the forth grade, thanks to Mr. McGruder, a second grade teacher at my elementary school, who I realized many years later must have been gay. I was beyond thrilled. I never felt that I would be a popular singer because I didn’t feel I was the kind of person who would sing the kind of songs that were on the radio. Finally with Kiki and Herb I found a way to do popular songs in a punk-cabaret style that felt unique at the time we were doing it, though a lot of people are doing that now. People liked my monologues and stories so I guess I developed a lot of different tricks as a way of justifying asking people to listen to me sing. It’s only been within the last few years I’ve started to think I’m actually a good singer and that is mainly because I’ve put out a few records and people seem to like them. So up until I began putting out records I wasn’t sure.

Rail: Silver Wells (2012) is such a beautiful album—you have a very specific and unusual voice and a lot of the singers you cover have singular voices: Judy Collins, Joni Mitchell, or Kate Bush. One thing I’ve been wondering is, “What is in the aesthetic reality of a voice—these women’s voices and your voice?”

Bond: The first singer that I fell in love with is Judy Collins, her voice is just so purely beautiful—in my opinion the ideal of what a beautiful female voice would sound like. She can sing these crazy high soprano notes but she also has a very rich alto. If I ever needed something as a child to soothe me, Judy Collins is what I went to—she is my musical mother. But the voice that really opened my ears to the possibilities of being a singer was Melanie. I found Melanie at the library when I was in middle school, I checked out a record that had “Candles in the Rain,” “Leftover Wine,” and her version of “Carolina in My Mind” by James Taylor. What I heard in Melanie’s voice that I hadn’t found in any other, and that I wanted in my own singing, is where the lyrics and the voice were only there to serve expressing the emotion. Her voice, unlike Judy Collins, was not traditionally beautiful. It was powerful, interesting, emotional, really intense, but it wasn’t “pretty.” I thought, “that is what I want to be able to do.” With Kiki I had a lot of rage and there was stuff going on emotionally in the world that I thought I could channel. At the end of the 15 years of doing Kiki I didn’t want to have to manufacture rage in order to serve what that character had become. Then I decided I needed to rediscover my own natural voice, instead of a character voice, and that is when I started writing my own songs and discovering my own voice. I did some originals and some covers on Dendrophile (2011). I had a series at Joe’s Pub with Thomas Bartlett and we did all of the songs that would eventually become Silver Wells. It was very spare and raw—just vocals and piano. We thought the simplicity of the arrangements were very strong so we decided to make a record. At that time I was depressed and feeling that the only way I could be happy at that time was to sing these particular songs because I just couldn’t do anything else. I had to sing sad songs because sad songs cheered me up.

Rail: Part of what I like about Silver Wells is that it’s a lot of songs I already had deep relationships with—you made the decision to subtly strip and intensify them to the point where they feel like incantations. The first song is the Ronee Blakley song “Dues,” which I fell in love with in Robert Altman’s Nashville (1975). Then comes Kate Bush’s “The Kick Inside” (1978) and then Nina Simone’s “Sinnerman” (1965). Those are such different types of performers and voices. How did you approach singing them?

Bond: Here is what we all have in common and what makes them such great singers: when you listen to Ronee Blakley you enter a world, a world that is exclusive to Ronee Blakley—her song writing style and way of singing is so uniquely “Ronee Blakley.” In the same way when you step into a Kate Bush record you step into a world, same with Nina Simone—those people and their voices take you to a specific place. My goal as a singer is to somehow manage to not only live in the worlds they created, but to also bring in my own experiences and express what I’ve experienced in my world. By doing that I’m not trying to subvert them, but honor them, and share in a way that reflects the world which my audiences are a part of. That is why I loved Melanie: “Melanie—child of the ’60s” was channeling this ’60s flower child thing, but she was also channeling the flipside, which is the isolated vulnerability that comes when you become a representation of that movement. As an artist you somehow need to maintain your individuality and your vulnerability within your iconography or you’re lost.

Rail: In these songs you keep the phrasing the same but they do feel completely new: that is an amazing thing to pull off. You know it’s a Leonard Cohen or Joni Mitchell skeleton, but it has been beautifully re-embodied as a Justin Vivian Bond song.

Bond: I don’t feel it’s important to gratuitously change a song just so it’s different, but I do try and make it my own. I’ve thought about that before and asked myself if I should make some major effort to reinvent this song. I don’t think that is necessary in most cases if you’re coming from an honest place.

Rail: One of the reasons I think it is effective to not change them is that most of the songs you choose already have powerful feelings attached to them for people, so keeping the skeleton of the song the same you tap directly into that pre-existing emotional reservoir, but you’re reanimating it so it can go somewhere else because your voice is so different.

Bond: I feel that those songs are iconic but, as you know, there are so many people that have never heard them—they are not particularly popular songs by the artists themselves who originally performed them—“Let the Wind Carry Me” is not the first song you think of when you think of Joni Mitchell.

Rail: They are songs that most people haven’t heard, unless they are a specific kind of person. I think that is what makes them special and that is a way of community building, of talking to a community. One thing I’d like to understand a little better is the context of Kiki and Herb emerging in San Francisco with all of their anger and rage, out of the AIDS crisis and culture wars—

Bond: When I created the character of Kiki I had been reading “Intimate Nights: The Golden Age of New York Cabaret” (1991) by Jim Gavin. By the 1950s cabaret was a very popular art, singing standards and jazz in these nightclub venues—a hugely successful and dynamic thing in New York City. Then rock ‘n’ roll came along and suddenly everyone covering Lennon-McCartney songs to death to seem relevant. Cabaret singers went from being at the heights of their creative and professional lives to being completely irrelevant—footnotes in history. At the time I was reading that the same thing was happening to gay people and gay culture—choreographers and fashion designers, amazing people who were vital parts of culture were just suddenly gone. Willi Smith for instance was this great designer and then he was dead—who knows about Willi Smith now? I thought it was interesting when thinking in terms of these parallels to have these characters teetering on that edge. To many people, Kiki was a kind of death figure, a survivor. She was operating from a place of: “What do you do to maintain relevance for an audience? Do you desperately cling to an idea of what you have been, or who you were, or do you adapt and fight to survive in the face of all but certain erasure?” At that time, as queers, we knew the Reagan administration, or the Bush administration, or Jesse Helms, or certain politicians, literally wanted us dead. They did not want to help—they wanted us to die. That is all there was to it—and there we were, “look everybody is dying!” At the same time there was also this great spirit of joy and anarchy because we were young and believed we could win the battle, so Kiki and Herb wasn’t a dreary show to see at all—it was crazy, fun, and chaotic with dark gallows humor, and it gave people a chance to laugh at what they were really experiencing as a horrible, terrifying time in their lives—so that is where that came from.

Rail: One thing I find delightful: recently it seems like any time there is a trans issue, media outlets use you as a talking head to weigh in on it. What is the experience of dealing with Justin Vivian Bond as a public entity?

Bond: I’ve always had such a big fucking mouth. One time when I was performing in D.C. I was being put up in a fabulous bed and breakfast run by this amazing queen named Gerald Duval. When I arrived he was wearing a jaunty beret with a red cashmere sweater and he immediately sat me down and insisted on reading to me from this book that would tell you about your personality based on the day you were born—according to this book I was born on “the day of moral courage.” I guess that explains things as much as anything does, if I disagree with somebody and I think they are making a call that is essentially offensive or incorrect I cannot but help throw my two cents worth in—I guess that is how I ended up being a spokesperson. I felt that Kiki and Herb were intrinsically political, and I continue to feel that most of what I do is intrinsically political. And notice I say “feel” instead of “think”—that must mean something too.

Rail: I liked when you said that when you listen to singers like Kate Bush or Nina Simone you “enter their world.” Part of what I admire about you is just your way of being in the world, that all of these things—performing, writing, singing, talking to the Huffington Post, etc.—are extensions of your larger world view.

Bond: I think my greatest skill is contextualization—I’m a contexualizer. With Kiki and Herb, that character was powerful because of the context given to it by the community in which it was originally created. When I stepped away from that character I discovered that by surrounding myself with my community it once again helped me ease into my voice as a performer. When I finally got to the point when I was recording Silver Wells, if you knew anything about me, then those world-making songs by the individual artists would be re-contextualized and would reflect where I was coming from when I sang them. I guess that is, in essence, what you’re saying—and why it all somehow works together, and I think that is very liberating.

Rail: What is exciting about you as a public figure is the way that you refuse a gender binary, which falls outside all easy categories. That is not a comfortable place to be. How did you become able to articulate that place?

Bond: That is a good way of putting the question because I was already in that place, so getting to the part of where I was able to articulate it, and where I felt that it was worth the trouble of articulating it, was something that I have struggled with all of my life. I was fortunate that I met Kate Bornstein in San Francisco and she asked me to do “Hidden: A Gender” (1989) playing Herculine Barbin, the 19th-century intersex person. I didn’t want to do the show. I had this really amazing roommate, the only time I had a straight male roommate, who was a really smart and lovely guy. I said to him ,“read this script and tell me what you think.” He said “it’s a great script, you really should do it. I can’t imagine anyone else playing this part.” I didn’t want to do it because at that time I had lived in San Francisco for about a year and I was finally, for the first time in my life, able to enjoy the company of men, specifically gay men, specifically queens. I was enjoying running around in my combat boots and having grown my hair out and being androgynous, though perceived as a young cute boy. I’d never felt like a sexual object as before and I liked it. I had this fear that once everyone knew I was trans, all of that was going to disappear. And I knew that once that happened there was going to be no going back, just like when I was outed as gay at the age of 10 or 11 and everyone said I was a fag in the sixth grade—there was never any going back. Fortunately, I had the wonderful experience of working with Kate who is a very nurturing person and who explained that you didn’t have to be a man or a woman. She basically understood what I was and helped me to become better able to articulate myself. Kiki was much less challenging to people. Kiki was perceived by some people to be a drag queen but in my mind I was playing the character of a woman so they didn’t have to deal with the aspects of me that would confuse them, there were specifics that they could latch onto. Meeting Nath Ann Carrera who became my lover for several years, and surrounding myself with community, made it possible for me to express being trans without identifying as “male” or “female.” Contextualizing that is not necessarily easy but I do feel that it’s important to try—many people don’t articulate it themselves but they understand. When I went to the Future Feminism show at The Hole (September 11 – 17, 2014) their 13th tenet was “THE FUTURE IS FEMALE” and I was so disappointed. Seeing that etched in rose quartz made me feel so utterly hopeless.

Rail: I felt that too. It was almost right, but it wasn’t.

Bond: Yes, in many ways they were so right on! But I felt that tenet 13 was problematic because that sort of language feeds the patriarchal power structures it’s trying to eliminate. By using binaristic categorizations and playing into the “us vs. them” mentality we defeat our own argument. The future is not certain. At most it is, at this point, a concept. Since when are concepts gendered? Together we could work towards achieving a more balanced future but it won’t be “female.” Is the past male? Is the present trans? Maybe for some people, but not for everyone. Regardless, if you want to cast off oppressive patriarchal tactics you can’t do it by adopting patriarchal tropes. Using binaristic language is easy, but it’s lazy. I felt completely erased from Future Feminism when I read that statement and I have to believe that was not their intention.

Rail: One thing I was disturbed by when I was reading an article about you in New York Magazine was a whole section that was like, “I asked all of these friends of Justin Vivian Bond about V’s taking hormones and they seemed shocked and didn’t know what to say,” followed by a string of quotes. And I just wondered what the hell was going on—

Bond: I guess certain people were disappointed that I started taking hormones. It’s just something that I chose to do because more than anything I thought it actually made a medical record of me being trans rather than me just saying it. By working with my doctor I was able to find the right balance so I could really feel right. I know a lot of trans women don’t want any testosterone—they take testosterone blockers—they want to look as much like their idea of a “real woman” as possible and to have that be the way that they express themselves. That is great for them and I totally support that choice, but when I was on the testosterone blockers I was so depressed and I didn’t have any sexual desire and I was really in a horrible state. It was confusing because everyone kept telling me how great I looked because I was looking really feminine and my skin looked great. I liked that I was developing breasts and that I appeared softer but when I was in Australia on tour and was researching this drug I was taking I read that it was what they give to sexual predators and I thought, “I don’t want to take drugs they give to sexual predators! This isn’t supposed to be a punishment!” I’m just trying to figure out where I want to be and what feels right for me. For now I seem to have found the right balance. It’s not just a political choice—if it were maybe I wouldn’t have taken estrogen at all. For me it’s also a personal and aesthetic choice because it helps me to me look and feel the way I want to look and feel. So my decisions are ultimately made for myself and no one else and I think that’s as it should be. When I’m naked I like the way I look. It’s my choice to present myself as the gendered and sexualized being that I want to be. Other people have the ability to wear lipstick, or go to the gym and work out, or to do the things they want to do in order to have the kind of body that they want in order to make themselves feel desirable and whole, so if people are upset about me taking estrogen it’s just because they are selfish narcissists who think that everyone should be what they think is the ideal. Fuck ’em.

Rail: I’ve watched that video of Nina Simone singing “Feelings” live in 1976 a hundred thousand times. There are these waves of antagonism and vulnerability—she wants the audience with her. I know exactly that maneuver because I feel it too: when people aren’t playing along I want to make them play along and sometimes you can do that by pushing them and they push back and then you can go somewhere. I really tune into that kind of deviated desire in her performances—wanting a connection with people that is special. That is one of the interesting things in thinking about cabaret performances as “intimate nights”—how do you create an intimacy with an audience as a performer?

Bond: I feel like that is one of my gifts. Joe’s Pub has always felt like my living room. When we were doing Kiki and Herb at Flamingo East in back in the ’90s people would come every week and meet each other, become friends; they would come to see us and they would also see each other. By the time we stopped playing there all these new relationships had been formed. I love that and I’m really pleased that I continue to be a catalyst in that way! If you stay in the same town and perform there over and over again you do have the opportunity to really develop an intimate communal relationship with your audience, which is not something that Nina Simone is going to experience on stage at the Montreux Jazz Festival as much as she might want to. That is why I didn’t enjoy performing on Broadway, or playing extended run off-Broadway—it was too impersonal. I don’t want to be much more famous than I am—and I use that word “famous” as a shortcut—because if I was really famous I wouldn’t experience that pleasure anymore: being able to actually connect and communicate with the special people that come to see my shows is really what it’s all about for me.

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Daniel Hechter A/W offerings are four prime collections

Daniel Hechter, the premium lifestyle apparel brand has come up with a wide range for the ongoing Autumn/Winter. The brand is offering four prime collections as per global trends. Meanwhile the brand is also spreading its retail and increasing its presence online.

Four collections to warm up winter

“This winter Daniel Hechter has come up with four prime collections. They are: Classic with a Twist which is a trademark Daniel Hechter formal shirts with some twist; French Fashion Ceremonial Classics a line of perfect evening wear; Athletic a casual collection; and Blue Blanc Rouge, the flagship story from the brand which represents the colors of French flag,” explains Shibani Mishra, Chief Marketing Officer, Indus League.

Daniel Hechter A/W offerings are four prime collections

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Daniel Hechter’s collections are priced between Rs 999 to Rs 9,999 and retailed through their boutiques and select Central. The product range includes shirts, trousers, T-shirts, suits and jackets. The brand has launched jackets and waist coats in super fine jacquard fabrics and velvets. “The collection is as per global trends. Hence, we are looking towards an eventful season with good business growth. We have come out with festive suits, jackets and waist coats,” informs Mishra.

Mishra points out that winter is a season for mix and match apparels and for that they have cropped jackets with ultra-soft construction and new shapes for fancy detailed trousers. “A sharp and new look has been given to coats and ceremony jackets. The collection reflects the quality of fabric used. Especially in shirts, fine woven fabrics made with high twisted yarns and fancy dobbies have been used,” explained Mishra. She goes on to add that Daniel Hechter has always offered premium products without compromising on quality.

Giving an insight on the colours in trend she says, “Two tone contrast coloured yarns in fabrics give density and warmth. Strong trend is for colored grays, violet and green. Deep colored illustrating the past trend of a new blue, less navy and more luminous. Other colors which are in trend are luminous brown, deep green and deep ochre. Powdered colours for full winter delivery opened on brushed cotton and flannel touch, light blue, light grey, ecru and off white yellow. As a brand we believe in the grace of French fashion. We combine European tradition with a sense of style and elegance offering a cosmopolitan flair with a creative twist,” she emphasized.

Retail expansion the way forward

The brand is present in most Central stores besides its own exclusive brand boutique stores. “Daniel Hechter is available through our online partners like Fashionara, Flipkart and Myntra and is selling well. We are also in talks with other online channels to establish greater presence in the online space. We are tapping Tier II cities as the brand is still not present there,” explains Mishra.

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